Featuring: Wines of While, Catalano’s Seafood…
PERTH finally has a natural wine bar, with a menu offering that is focused on fresh, seasonal, locally sourced produce.
Wines of While is a natural wine bar at the northern end of William street in Perth and is the brainchild of first-time publican Sam Winfield (doctor by day, WSET global award winning, entrepreneur and wine lover by night). The cosy and light-filled Wines of While has a European, oenoteca vibe where the food is chosen based on its match to the wines.
“Natural wines are known for their high acidity and sometimes volatility, so they often need food to go with them that can complement those characters. Our menu caters to the matching of these wines. It’s not so serious – whatever you want to drink, we’ve got something to go with it” says Sam. The food is simple, seasonal and nourishing without being heavy or overhearty.
“There are many restaurants and bars in Perth that focus on precise and elegant food which is great, but I want to provide simplicity. Real food; no bells and whistles. Food that is approachable and generous. My friends, and myself included, can only go out for the fine food experience so often.”
The people of Perth have been flocking to get a taste of Wines of While since it opened its doors in early August.
“There’s an interesting mix of cultures in Perth, especially Italian, Greek and English. Many people have memories or current-day circumstances where there is a favourite family dish, a homemade sausage, or bowl of pasta that is simple.”
Sam prepares local ingredients onsite, sourced from local area suppliers. He works with pork, lamb and goat from Macabee Dorper in the Avon Valley.
“Macabee Dorper work with heritage breeds. For example, I look for the pork with good back fat as it has a better flavour. They have African breeds of lamb which have a distinct taste. These are not supermarket cuts that people are used to buying.”
For the seafood, Sam goes to local business Catalano’s Seafood, sourcing favourites like crabs, baccala, mackerel and sardines. “People are screaming out for something familiar and delicious that they don’t have to think too much about.”
There is talk around town of Sam’s sourdough, which, prior to the bar, he had been selling out of a café in North Fremantle.
“I got seriously into baking sourdough after reading Flour Water Salt Yeast, and following the San Francisco bakers, the guys in Oregon, and I started baking dark crust bread. I use a no-knead method, baked in a Belgian Rofco oven. The sandstone base provides a consistent heat,” explains Sam, “I was tired of eating blond bread. It’s so boring. My point of difference is I provide bread that has a dark crust with flavour and texture. When you’re only baking 24 to 36 loaves a day, you can afford to make bread that people are interested in. I serve the bread in the bar.”
Dishes like broadbeans, pecorino, lemon, olive oil and sourdough, or radicchio and witlof with bottarga; raw artichoke salad with ricotta salata and locally sourced spring greens feature.
The menu displayed scrawled on a blackboard behind the bar, along with the wines by the glass, is kept intentionally tight, consisting of 7-10 small plates to go with the wines, and one plate du jour for the evening meal, which changes several times a week. “The idea is people can come by on their way home from work and stop in for a meal.”
Wines of While has been packed out every night since opening, but if you can sneak in early, you will be rewarded with a spot to sit, and a glass to sip. 458 William Street Perth. E:sam@winesofwhile.com