JULIEN Royer, the man behind Singapore’s Odette, which claimed the number one spot on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants this year, has now burst on to Hong Kong’s dining scene with the opening of Louise under the JIA Group.
Nestling in PMQ and taking full advantage of its majestic colonial surrounds, Louise is a relatively large (by Hong Kong standards) outfit, with two storeys and high ceilings with plush, exotic looking interiors – so plush and exotic in fact, that Wallpaper (travel guide) wrote a glowing review of the architect Andre Fu.
All-day dining and drinks are served at the ground-level Tropical Greenhouse Lounge, with a la carte lunch and dinner available in the upstairs Ivory Boudoir dining room. It’s a bit more rustic than one might expect, given the pomp that imbues some of PMQ’s other establishments, but the braised beef in red wine with confit carrots is not to be missed. Louise, 35 Aberdeen St, Central, Hong Kong; phone +852 2866 0300.
When the Landmark Mandarin Oriental announced it was going to “do” a casual dining restaurant, the world for a second made a little less sense. But when it decides to do something, it does it very well (revamping the staid Amber, hosting the relocated three-Michelin starred Sushi Shikon, for example), and so, we have the unveiling of Somm.
For those who might not want the marathon of Amber’s tasting menu, neighbouring Somm offers relatively straightforward French bistro food with some add-ons such as Tasmanian salmon confit, crispy white asparagus and tarragon sabayon, and the extremely good “Raspberry 1000-Feuilles” with whipped pepper berry ganache.
But it’s the wine that sets Somm apart. The hotel’s wine director John Chan has chosen 1600 bottles of champagne, wine and sake which adorn the bar and positively encourage a gentle exploration over lunch or dinner. Try the weekend Sommeliers Lunch of three or four courses to while away the afternoon. Somm, 7/F, Landmark Mandarin Oriental, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd Central, Hong Kong; phone +852 2132 0055.
Many of Hong Kong’s keen diners (below a certain age perhaps) will remember James Sharman from One Star House Party – the gung-ho band of chefs who embarked on a world tour with the aim to build 20 restaurants in 20 different countries.
Now, the globetrotting chef – who has worked with the likes of Tom Aikens and Rene Redzepi – is back with a permanent set-up in Hong Kong. Having explored, well most places, including Mount Everest, Sharman has gone full circle with The Leah, offering classic British dishes from his native England.
There’s more than a nod to James’ adventure days, there’s a large greenery filled terrace (a rarity in Hong Kong), and colourful cocktail list which keeps The Leah going well into the evening.
Expect no-frills dishes such as gnocchi cooked in beef fat, whole roasted Dover sole and a rather lovely short-rib pie, and be warned that during the day the restaurant caters to the private family club, Maggie & Rose, so make sure you go post 7pm when Hugo and Olivia are tucked up in bed. The Leah, 308 & 311, 3/F, Lee Garden Two, 28 Yun Ping Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong; phone +852 2337 7651.