Featuring: Rico Dining, Agnes, Howard Smith Wharves…

THE Queensland dining scene ended in February just as suddenly as the rest of the country. The behemoth entertainment complex Howard Smith Wharves, sprawling over acres of the CBD riverbank, shut dozens of its venues including the events complex that previously housed up to 3000 guests.
Millennial hangout’s Felon’s and Mr Percival’s went from heaving watering holes to ghost towns overnight. Ditto the more sophisticated Yoko, Greca and Stanley but the real shock was that the multi-awarded and much lauded Arc, headlined by chef Alanna Sapwell, was to close for good. As this magazine is released venues are re-opening but no word as yet on what will replace the bright, colourful waterfront space.
Sapwell is now in Noosa having opened Esmay, a three-month pop up on the site of Noosa mainstay, Wasabi.
Sweeping views over the Noosa River towards the Everglades, the food with champion ‘hyper seasonal’ produce from the hinterland and surrounds in dishes such as crab donuts with coral mayo, flathead with mountain mushrooms and Geraldton wax and Eucalyptus ice cream with strawberries and fermented honey. 2 Quamby Place, Noosa; phone (07) 5449 2443.
Prior to the pandemic Rico Dining appeared in the space previously housing Matt Moran’s Aria, one of the more shocking closures of 2019 and clearly marking the death of that type of venue. Dubbed the ‘Golden Triangle’ in the Eagle Street Pier, Aria’s forced formality and cloistered aesthetic was replaced by a far more casual interior, which spills onto the deck surrounding the restaurant.
Shiny wooden tabletops and copper accoutrements with a backdrop of cement walls and speckled countertops replaced clothed tables and upholstered walls. The room arches around to take full advantage of the river views and there’s a cosy bar at the front where you can snack on tapas and oysters while checking out the eclectic cocktail menu and more reserved wine list.
The menu is influenced by both Spanish and South American flavours and techniques – it begins with a range of picada’s – think jamon Iberico and warm olives – then moves through various incarnations of ceviche and oysters and then on to the tapas section. Croquetta of the day, prawns in chilli and garlic, patatas bravas and char-grilled lamb ribs make for colourful and sensibly priced options for both sharing or solo pursuits. Barramundi tail in piquillo peppers, whole baby squid and a selection of steaks makes up the main course or you can share a paella of seafood, meat (chicken, pork, chorizo, morcilla) or live marron all served for two (but it’s huge, so really 3-4). Eagle Street Pier, 45 Eagle Street, Brisbane; phone (07) 3188 1444.

While some businesses closed completely others morphed into takeaway hubs, some with great success. Leading the charge was Same Same, Ty Simon’s gorgeous new space in the Ada Lane, opposite the Calile Hotel. Sommeliers pared back the wine offering while bar staff organised the cocktail offering that came individually bottled and ready with dehydrated citrus and other essential garnishes. The curries, bao’s and stir-fries remained as flavourful and refined as ever so it was left up to us to create the bustling ambience at home. Shop AM3, Ada Lane, 46 James Street, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3188 1418.
His other venture, Agnes was due to open a week into the lockdown much to his, and business partner chef Ben Williamson (ex-Gerard’s & Gerard’s Bar) collective horror. The gorgeous old brick warehouse spreads over several levels and mezzanines including a rooftop garden and private dining room that seat up to 20.
The cluster of rooms are rustic and industrial with wine racks dividing spaces allowing light to filter through and a warm ambience to emerge. The main feature is the wood fired oven, which was yet to be fired up until this creative thinking pair, with partners Frank Li and Bianca Marchi, morphed the almost open venue into a bakery and bottle shop.
To say Agnes Bakery is an unmitigated success is an understatement. Working overnight Williamson and his crew stoked the fires while churning out extraordinary baked goods such as custard and almond kouign amann, lemon curd and strawberry filled doughnuts, charry Basque cheesecakes and a range of pizzette that brought joy to our Covid-19-reduced lives.
They also produced smoked potato and a malted grain and treacle sourdough and pantry items such as wood smoked butter, Aleppo pepper relish and scampi caviar to spread over the bread. Crowds formed socially distanced queues around the block every day from 5am. Brisbanites patiently waited as the line snaked around the gritty Fortitude Valley side streets, knowing a moreish Baghdad egg pizza or a luscious cream filled choux pastry would be well worth the wait.
In mid-July, the bakery morphed back into the restaurant offering wood fired menu options like charry lamb, whole baked fish, a plethora of smoky vegetables and delicious condiments. 22 Agnes Street, Fortitude Valley; phone (07) 3067 9087.