I RE-KINDLED my affection for Darwin a few years ago and have returned several times since. If I need any further incentive to book a trip, I watch Jimmy Shu’s Taste of the Territory on SBS On Demand. The eight-episode series is a showcase of the NT’s culinary treats from Darwin’s fresh produce markets and multicultural restaurants to bush tucker in Arnhem Land. People from more than 50 nationalities live in Darwin and its surrounds and one of the prime ways they rubber-stamp their diversity is through their food and drink.
One of the best places to confirm that the Territory is just as trend-conscious as the southern states is to drop by for a drink at Charlie’s of Darwin. Since opening its doors early last year as the city’s first dedicated gin bar, owner Rebecca Bullen has taken the Chesterfield-filled hideaway to the top. Charlie’s was one of only two Australian nominees on the Top 20 Bars to Visit in the World 2021, compiled by the Daily Telegraph newspaper in the UK.
The tipple to choose is Darwin Gin, Charlie’s first in-house gin which debuted in February. There is a croc on the label and Australian natives such as kakadu plum, lemon myrtle and river mint have star roles in the flavours and botanicals. The best place to sip? Charlie’s year-round rooftop bar with views over Raintree Park.
Close by is the Babylon Bar in Air Raid Arcade. As the name implies, Darwin’s first retro theme bar is a magnet for the younger set. The decor is eclectic and there’s a pool room and dancing on some nights. A great choice for a buzzy nightcap.
The One Mile Brewing Company became the first local independent brewery to hit the shelves at 10 of the Territory’s BWS stores in June last year. The core range made the cut – 4:21 Kolsch, RDO, Otto’s IPA and Pink Lady Cider. The micro-brewery was founded by Stuart Brown and Bardy Bayram in 2012 in Winnelie, a few minutes’ drive from central Darwin. It’s open on Thursday, Fridays and Saturdays for tastings and sales and you can chow down on pizza from the resident food truck.
The prestige houses of Cullen Bay sell for millions, which is probably why the area is home to Darwin’s first all-vegan restaurant, Ebb & Flow. In addition to upmarket plant-based mains such as creamy mushroom garlic linguini, to fish and chips and chickpea mango curry, the drinks list offers, wines, spirits and beers exclusively from vegan-certified businesses. The waterfront setting supplies a great backdrop for sunset drinks. The pink sangria is a popular, easy-drinking choice on the live music nights.
Like all state capitals, Darwin is packed with cafes and restaurants that deliver top-class food at reasonable prices. The outstanding contender to save bucks without compromise is Little Miss Korea, known locally as LMK. Located near Charlie’s in Austin Lane, chef-owner Chung Jae Lee has made the hole-in-the wall eatery a destination for lovers of Korean charcoal barbecue dishes. The industrial decor is very inner city and dumplings cost as little as a dollar. The adjacent Loading Bay bar specialises in gin-based drinks and Asian twists on classic cocktails such as the guava and lychee highball.
Frying Nemo on the marina at Tipperary Waters uses the best wild-caught Territory and Australian fish and seafood. Popular “catches” include NT golden snapper, mangrove jack, barramundi and jewfish. Nemo’s has won the title of best fish and chips in the NT several times and consistently makes the finals for the national title. For those who crave an Outback vibe, the burger list includes a crocodile burger.
Jimmy Shu founded Hanuman in 1992 and the restaurant remains a must-stop for foodlovers visiting Darwin. His Chinese/Sri Lankan heritage speaks loudly on the menu and the Asian-inspired decor punches home the message. There’s also a sister restaurant in Alice Springs if you are driving south. Moreish favourites include nonya pork rolls, Singapore chilli prawns, South Indian goat curry and jackfruit curry. Save room for the signature dessert – black rice creme brulee – a pandan-infused custard with black rice, mango creme fraiche and sesame meringue.
Other stalwarts of the Darwin dining landscape include Pee Wee’s at the Point, which has clinched the NT restaurant of the year award several times. Best known among novelty-seekers for its coconut-crusted crocodile tail, Wharf One Food & Wine overlooks the lagoon at Darwin Waterfront and also does a brisk business in wood-fired tapa dishes.
While some of the best steaks in town can be ordered at Char Restaurant. But there’s nothing casual about the plush, heritage-listed surrounds of the Admiralty House venue. The restaurant was launched by John Kilroy, the restaurateur and businessmen extraordinaire who championed Queensland beef to buyers from all over the world and made Brisbane’s Cha Cha Char a Mecca for steak lovers. The “magic touch” has been transferred to the Top End and the tomahawk, T-bone, sirlons and eye fillet cuts are second-to-none.
British transplant, Martin Bouchier, has been lighting up the Darwin dining scene for more than six years with stints at PM Eat & Drink and Viva La Vida. In September last year he opened Phat Mango. The menu changes constantly and Territorian ingredients are given an haute cuisine spin in dishes like crocodile laksa and roo tartare. Other lures that make Phat Mango a must-book are Gunbalanya eye fillet from Arnhem Land with kipler mash and bush apple and green plum compote, roo osso bucco and butter poached cod with radish salad and lemon myrtle beurre blanc.
If you need a guiding hand, Darwin Gourmet Tours offers three-hour dinner tours and Saturday and Sunday lunch tours featuring many of the above restaurants for only $149 per person.