Featuring: Joe’s Kiosk, Saha, Scenic Hotel…
WHAT was once a humble beach café known as Joe’s Kiosk, that started life some 25 years ago as an ice cream and drinks shop, has taken on a new life since it was purchased in 2018 by Cibo Espresso founder Roberto Cardone and business partner Mark Balnaves.
Over the first 22 years of its life, the council-owned property run by Joe Weber became a favourite haunt for bohemian locals, celebrities, Adelaide politicians and early morning joggers and swimmers. But it remained nothing more than a kiosk with good coffee.
Under its new owners, now joined by former publican Hugo Pedler as partner and manager, it’s undergone a total transformation, both in overall style, comfort and especially its food – now in the hands of former Jordanian royal family chef Krish Dutt. The name, too, has changed – it’s now Joe’s Henley Beach.
Its west-facing picture windows are as close to the sea as can possibly be, like a white and blue beach house hanging over the sand, blue banquettes and white bentwood chairs add to the picture, making it perfect for enjoying the new weekend sunset dinner series launched in October last year.
The fixed price “feed me” menu features local seafood including Coffin Bay oysters, perhaps with a lemon and shallot mignonette, Port Lincoln cockle pasta and grilled snapper fillet with pickled fennel, finishing up with Joe’s affogato.
But for most day-to-day diners – Joe’s is open daily – it’s the breakfast and lunch menus that will appeal with breakfast classics such as eggs benedict or smashed avocado with poached egg, Joe’s signature King George whiting with chips and salad at lunch, along with dishes such as crispy chicken and pomegranate salad or fish tacos. There’s a very contemporary wine list for lunchtime diners, making this as good a seaside dining experience as you’ll find on Adelaide’s coast.
Joe’s Henley Beach, Esplanade, Henley Beach. Open for breakfast and lunch seven days, dinner Friday to Sunday. Phone (08) 8235 0111.
A kitchen fire put paid to the once thriving Lebanese café Saha, on the eastern reaches of Norwood’s Parade, resulting in its moving to new premises still in the region and not so far away. If that caused disappointment for the locals it’s been short-lived, because in its place has come one of the city’s most stylish wine bars Lune Bar & Eatery.
What was a fairly unimposing double shopfront has been completely transformed by a posse of partners, all experienced in fine hospitality, led by chef Sam Worrall-Thompson who takes the “eatery” bit seriously with a menu of wonderfully tempting dishes. No simple bar snacks here.
The former bright, airy interior is split into two sections: the entrance opens to a bar and terrazzo-topped high table, while next door is kitted out in more conventional restaurant style, where it definitely feels more restaurant than bar – though the wine list is clearly taken seriously (given that one of the partners is also a winemaker).
Worrall-Thompson’s menu is a fast-changing parade that starts with a series of small snacks – try grilled Japanese scallops, crisp celeriac and tilsit croquettes or barramundi soldiers with shellfish mayo. Slightly larger dishes bring you to dishes such as cacio e pepe orecchiette with truffle, pecorino and black pepper, or brussel sprouts with lap cheong, cauliflower and fried lentils. Among the larger dishes still, the barbecued squid with chilli sambal and burnt lemon is a standout. Lune Bar & Eatery, 303 The Parade, Beulah Park. Open for lunch Thursday to Sunday, dinner Wednesday to Sunday. Phone (08) 8133 5952.
One of the best places in Adelaide for a gin and tonic or cold ale on a hot summer’s day is the balcony of the Scenic Hotel, at Norton Summit in the Adelaide Hills. Like the two establishments mentioned above, it’s an old venue that’s been taken over by a new, young and well experienced crew who have transformed the place.
Unlike some revamped Hills hotels, the makeover here has been plain and simple, with the focus on friendly service, good food and interesting drinks – with a firm interest in smaller boutique wineries. And, of course, no pokies.
The menu does a basic nod to conventional pub fare – though the schnitzel is kangaroo with mash and pepper sauce and a fish burger comes with cos lettuce, chilli and shallots. There’s fun with a steak tartare served with a packet of Smith’s crisps, and serious happiness in a roast half chicken with both bread sauce and chicken sauce.
The locals are very pleased and try to understand they must now share the place with city types.
Scenic Hotel, Norton Summit. Open for lunch Thursday to Sunday, dinner Wednesday to Saturday. Phone (08) 7320 1610.