Featuring: Cabana Bar, Odd Culture Newtown…

THE iconic MLC Centre in Sydney’s CBD has been given a $170 million facelift and re-branded as 25 Martin Place. One of the first venues to highlight the redevelopment is Cabana Bar. Opened in mid-December, the property’s 100 metre terrace is the largest in town and offers gun barrel views down the entire length of Martin Place.
Tilly and Wills, the award-winning hospitality group, who also operate Juniper Lane, Bistro Mosman and the Greenwood Hotel, are in charge and it shows. The fitout comes courtesy of Lucchetti Krelle (Bather’s Pavilion), who have conjured up a beach-style ambiance through ocean blue banquettes, rattan furniture, shell sconces and tropical greenery. The five function spaces, including two bars and a semi-private dining room, allow patrons to make optimum use of the long opening hours – 11.30 am to midnight from Monday to Thursday and stretching to 2 am on Fridays and Saturdays – for lunches, dinners and after work drinks.
Brad Sloane, the group executive chef of the Tilley and Wills group, has created a menu that walks the line between gastro pub and sophisticated contemporary. We enjoyed a tasting menu of seasonal oysters with cucumber mignonette, zucchini blossoms stuffed with Italian cheeses, WA grilled scallops in the shell with miso, sesame and shallots and tequila cured salmon and blue corn tostadas, avocado crema, jalapeno and lime.
We beefed up these openers with spaghetti, blue swimmer crab, tomatoes, chilli and herbs. Other heartier mains include herb crumbed chicken schnitzel, 250g southern prime sirloin and pan-seared Tasmanian salmon. For those in search of more casual listings to fill up on there’s “Two Hands” treats such as the classic cheeseburger and Californian chicken, as well as fish and pulled pork tacos.
Cabana Bar’s seaside vibe points up the fact that Sydney is one of the few major cities in the world which also offers close proximity to a string of world class beaches, making the most of its eyrie-like location in the centre of the city’s constantly changing CBD. In short, the relaxing oasis hit the ground running with its curated selection of fine wines, cocktails and craft beers, best enjoyed at sunset when there’s the possibility of a local version of Manhattanhenge as the sun cuts through the surrounding cityscape.
Signature cocktails include Seaside Spritz, a blend of Alize St Germain Elderflower Liqueur, prosecco, lemon and soda, but there were plenty of takers for classics such as pina colada, Aperol spritz and raspberry lime mojito during our visit. Instagram fans will find it hard to go past the Fishbowls – 600ml servings of Summer Breeze (amaretto, Joseph Cartron Peche and Mure, lychee, lemon and strawberry soda) and Caribbean Sunset (Espolon Blanco Tequila, Cointreau, orange spritz, lime and soda).
The rotating wine list is in the capable hands of Katie Murphy, who earned her chops in Europe, New York and a 12-year stint with Tilley and Wills. She won my heart by approaching our table with a bottle of Veuve Clicquot topped by a Coravin Sparkling device to underscore Cabana’s strong emphasis on superior wines by the glass. What next? Maybe a 2018 Frogmore Creek Pinot Noir or 2020 Pierro Chardonnay and plenty more.

Cabana is also custom-designed for events if you want to cut a dash – privately or professionally. But it’s just as appealing for couples of all ages and theatre goers from the rejuvenated Theatre Royal Sydney nearby. Whatever the reason for your booking, you will feel relaxed the moment you walk in and that’s what its owners intended.
Cabana Bar, 25 Martin Place, Sydney; phone (02) 9215 6000.
Luchetti Krelle was also responsible for the interiors of Jane – all gleaming brass, warm toned marble and tanned leather. The latest restaurant venture of Tristan Rosier of the renowned Arthur restaurant only a few doors down in Surry Hills, this gorgeous newbie with only 30 seats is named after his grandmother.
Foodies will remember one of the site’s former occupants – Bistrode – with fondness and Jane’s is also worth a pilgrimage. Head chef, Victoria Scriven, has taken a more casual approach, but not so’s most people would know it. Think cocktail honey bugs with tarragon, an inspired update on prawn cocktail, wallaby saucisson, blackberries and cipollini or kangaroo tartare, bush tomato and shoestring fries for starters.
Our choice of mains were – Murray cod, native curry and saltbush and 1kg rib eye, shishito peppers and accompaniments – and were standouts. Jane’s Pink Cake is the signature dessert – layers of sponge, meringue, strawberries and candied rosella flowers. Sommelier Kyle Reno Lenci has selected 80 artisanal Aussie wines – 25 by the glass. Pop in for an aperitif or book the custom-made marble table with its lazy susan to add a touch of fun to an already first-class experience.
Jane, 478 Bourke Street, Surry Hills; phone 0403 632 355.
Looking outward onto a busy streetscape is also a major lure of Odd Culture Newtown. Slap in the middle of King Street, the French and Japanese inspired diner and wine bar fills the space once inhabited by the dumpling go-to – Happy Chef – destroyed by fire four years ago. There’s little of the old ethos left and there’s a big focus on ferment from craft beers through natural wines and ingredients.
The Odd Culture Group also helms the Oxford Tavern, the Duke of Enmore and the Old Fitzroy hotels and have called in Jesse Warkentin (ex-Continental Deli) to helm the ranges. The menu is divided, starting with snacks such as Appellation oysters in yuzu kosho vinaigrette and chicken liver pate with fish caramel sauce. Or opt for small shares such as beef tartare with puffed rice, herbs and lime or confit duck with bitter leaves, corn, bacon and hazelnuts. The large plates are visual and taste treats from the blood pancake, pork jowl, fried egg and maple syrup to Murray cod, bottarga butter and mustard leaves.
Jordan Blackman, the beverage manager of the Odd Culture Group, has put together the wine selections with a distinct nod to natural wines. You can also head to the restaurant’s wine shop two doors away to take home one or more bottlings from one of the most interesting vinous lineups in the Inner West or drink them in situ. The decor of wooden tables, suede-covered banquettes and concrete floors makes everyone from local Goths to young families and hip seniors feel welcome.
Odd Culture Newtown, 262-266 King Street, Newtown; phone (02) 8317 3057.