News Briefs Archive - Winestate

TAMING THE BEAST

production — Sun, 06 Nov 2022 23:03:19 +0000

AS a local general practitioner and anaesthetist, McLaren Vale vigneron Matt Brown reckons he’s found the right medicine when it comes to winemaking – especially if it involves lesser-known varieties in Australia such as carignan, montepulciano and especially tannat, the grape that underpins and defines his The Good Doctor’s Tonic.
“It’s a beast to grow, extremely vigorous with big seeds and big bunches, and it’s a beast to make,” Brown says, a big wine with full throttle tannins and searing acidity.
Tannat is thought to have originated in the Basque region of northwest Spain – Basque migrants took it to Uruguay where it became the national red wine variety – but is more associated with Madiran in southwest France. It’s now planted in many Australian wine regions but remains little celebrated, possibly for the very reason Brown likes it so much.
“I wanted a wine not for now,” he says, which although he’s been including it in blends with cabernet sauvignon and shiraz since his first vintage in 2006, his current release is only the 2012 vintage, with the 2014 now ‘ready to go’.
“I’m a scientist at heart,” he says, “and every year I’m playing with different variables to evolve that wine. I’m growing in confidence with the tannat content, moving it more to the front. The first vintages were a third of each grape variety, but now I’m getting toward 60-70% tannat as I gain more knowledge and control.”
Brown put it all to the test recently when he invited a group of fellow winemakers, loyal customers and media to a 12-year vertical tasting of The Good Doctor’s Tonic from 2006 to 2018 at his 16ha vineyard at the base of the Willunga foothills, which he’s developed with noted viticulturist Richard Leask.
Big wines require big food flavours to go with them, and local chef Nigel Rich chose tannat-braised lamb shoulder with star anise and green cardamom, plus barbecue potatoes with onion butter as a match – though the perfect match for tannat wines is said to be chocolate brownies with maple bacon to go with the layers of chocolate and spiciness that arrive as the tannat mellows and ages.
“I’m in no hurry to release these wines any earlier,” Brown adds. “I’ve now worked out both the vineyard and the winemaking techniques we need, which is why these wines are growing in elegance and refinement. I have a sense of being on the cutting edge of the evolution of a new wine that will grow in its acceptance.”

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FRENCH FLAIR FOR ADELAIDE

production — Sun, 06 Nov 2022 22:53:00 +0000

THERE is something about a beautifully cooked French meal with fine wines that instantly nourishes the soul, correspondent Winsor Dobbin reports.
The arrival in Adelaide of Garcon Bleu means the City of Churches now has its own little gourmet slice of France.
Garcon Bleu, on level nine of the Sofitel in Currie Street, is a restaurant that happens to be in a hotel, rather than a hotel restaurant – and it buzzes every night it is open.
The $150 million new-build hotel offers guests a selection of 251 rooms and suites with a choice of city and Adelaide Hills views – but the quality of the restaurant makes it a stand-alone destination.
Think a casual ambience but a serious approach to classic French dishes using local produce.
Garçon Bleu’s has a 90-seat dining room with an open kitchen, wine wall, and an oyster and raw seafood bar.
The wine list offers an excellent selection of French (lots of serious Burgundy temptations) and Australian labels, from favourites like Henschke to micro producers like Ministry of Clouds and Stargazer.
Wines by the glass include labels like Shaw+Smith, Yangarra and John Duval.
The menu features dishes like cheese souffle with bechamel sauce, mushroom velouté and pickled shimeji and classic steak with a 250-gram grass-fed Scotch fillet served with béarnaise sauce and crunchy pommes frites.
Dessert choices include a tarte tatin with crème fraîche ice cream and caramel sauce, or a creme brulee.
Garcon Bleu is open Wednesday to Friday for lunch from noon and Wednesday to Sunday for dinner from 6pm. Reservations are recommended on (08) 8432 1999. See www.garconbleu.com.au

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TAYLORS PERFECT AT HALF THE SIZE

production — Thu, 01 Sep 2022 04:26:16 +0000

HALF bottles of wine are perfect if you want a glass or two of white followed by a red with the main course.
Unfortunately, half bottles have largely fallen out of vogue – but Clare Valley-based family winery Taylors has unveiled a selection of half-sized bottles featuring its Jaraman range of regional blends.
The Jaraman range is known for showcasing the terroirs of two distinctly different wine regions.
For its initial release of 375ml bottles, Taylors has selected its 2020 Jaraman Clare Valley and Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP $20), 2020 Jaraman Clare Valley and McLaren Vale Shiraz (RRP $20) and the 2021 Jaraman Adelaide Hills and Clare Valley Chardonnay (RRP $15).
“It’s exciting to share these incredible wines in a half-size format,” says managing director Mitchell Taylor. “The wine-drinking occasion has changed a lot over the years from the traditional wine at home with a meal. More and more people want to enjoy premium quality wines at a picnic without carrying an entire bottle or worrying about any wine wastage.
“The half-bottle format in the Jaraman range does just the trick.”
The new Jaraman half-bottles will be available from select independent retailers, from Taylors cellar door, and online at www.taylorswines.com.au.

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FACELIFT FOR QUEEN VIC WATERING HOLE

production — Thu, 01 Sep 2022 04:22:25 +0000

ONE of Melbourne’s most famous watering holes is getting a new name and a new look.
Brick Lane Brewing has acquired the lease for the old Mercat Cross Hotel in the Queen Victoria Market precinct, redeveloping the old pub into an immersive beer experience, including a restaurant, bar, and educational space.
The space is expected to be completely open in March 2023, with some pop-up activity in the meantime.
Brick Lane Founder and CEO Paul Bowker, says: “The redevelopment of the iconic Mercat Cross Hotel site is one of the most important steps in the renewal of the Market Precinct and it’s an incredible honour that Queen Victoria Market has entrusted us with bringing this to life.
“We’re thrilled to be investing in our ongoing relationship with Queen Victoria Market.
“Since inception, Brick Lane has had community and inclusivity at its core and there is no better example of the Market which has focussed on bringing Melburnians together for over 140 years. We are committed to creating a welcoming and inclusive space for all Melburnians, visitors, and the market community.
“This will be the flagship venue for Brick Lane and firmly cement our roots in the hustle and bustle of the Melbourne laneways and community which was the inspiration for the brewery since day one.”
The venue will include a ground-floor bar featuring a range of diverse beer styles, an upstairs restaurant driven by local market produce with an emphasis on sustainability, casual terrace dining, and function areas with live music areas on the upper level.
The food menu will highlight seasonal Victorian produce, while the drinks list will feature Victorian wine and spirit producers as well as Brick Lane’s portfolio of beers including their Sidewinder No Alcohol and Sunsetter Ginger Beer ranges.
“The site provides a unique opportunity to truly showcase to Melbourne and the world the special role that beer can play in creating community and bringing people together,” says Bowker.
“We see this as a real opportunity to bring the brewery and beer more broadly to life by creating an engaging and educational hospitality experience, where everyone is welcome. The opportunity to do this in the Market precinct where our first kegs were poured four years ago, makes it even more special.”
See www.bricklanebrewing.com

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NEW GOURMET CELLAR DOOR EXPERIENCE

production — Fri, 22 Jul 2022 05:35:55 +0000

BEC Hardy Wines has unveiled a new South Australian gourmet experience at cellar door in McLaren Vale. The Kitchen at Bec Hardy showcases the best of local, sustainable food in a relaxed setting among the vines.
With a philosophy of “all things local, seasonal and sustainable,” the kitchen will initially be open Friday, Saturday, and Sundays from 10am to 3pm.
The winery, co-owned by sixth generation Hardy family member Bec and her husband, Richard, already hosts events ranging from yoga in the vines and painting classes.
Heading up the kitchen is Anthony Schlenk, who joins the team from Penfolds Magill Estate kitchen. He previously ran the Moseley Beach Club kitchen at Glenelg. Schlenk champions an unpretentious approach to food, seeing it as a platform for connecting people and bringing joy, and is passionate about sourcing ingredients for the menu responsibly and ethically. The Bec Hardy team has also worked in collaboration with Nick Finn, who played a key role in the launch of the acclaimed restaurant at 2KW in the CBD.
The menu, which will be changed frequently, features a selection of small and larger dishes, offering diners the opportunity to share, follow a traditional à la carte path, or sit back and let the chef decide with a ‘feed me’ menu.
The launch menu includes ingredients sourced from local producers including chorizo from Ellis Butchers of McLaren Vale, bread from Andy Clappis bakery in Willunga and bio-dynamic organic cheese from Paris Creek Farms in Meadows.
Dishes from the inaugural menu include ‘pan-seared South Australian Tommy Ruff served with dill and lemon beurre blanc sauce, mashed potatoes, and herbed asparagus; and lamb shanks slow-roasted in Bec Hardy Shiraz served with creamy polenta finished with sautéed kale and a parmesan crumb.
As a 100% dog-friendly cellar door, Bec Hardy is among the first winery eateries to offer a dish for furry friends: a chicken liver jerky.
Dishes for humans can be paired with wines by the glass or bottle from the Bec Hardy Wines portfolio.
Bec Hardy, co-owner and co-MD, says: “The Kitchen at Bec Hardy has been a dream of mine since we took over the Pertaringa cellar door in McLaren Vale back in July 2020, and this new space represents the biggest investment and expansion here in 30 years.
“There is no better partner to great food than great wine, even more so when the produce is sourced from the land and sea around us. We’ve loved creating a welcoming space for people to visit with friends, family, and their dog – and now we’re able to go beyond a glass of wine and a platter and invite them to indulge in a quintessentially South Australian meal amongst the vines.”
The Kitchen at Bec Hardy opening has coincided with the renaming of the cellar door from Pertaringa to Bec Hardy Wines.
Bookings are recommended to avoid disappointment, but walk-ins will be catered for, if space is available.
For further information visit www.bechardy.com.au To book a restaurant spot call (08) 8383 2700

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VINTAGE 2022

production — Fri, 22 Jul 2022 05:33:46 +0000

IT’S true that no two days are the same, and even truer that no two vintages are. Covid rather than weather loomed over 2020’s harvest, 2021 had the dream combination of no covid and perfect weather, albeit with smaller yields, but 2022 brought with it covid and challenging weather (for most).
February and March heralded New Zealand’s first serious community spread of coronavirus and the Omicron wave crashed into a harvest already running short on labour.
Julz Brodgen, owner and winemaker at Collaboration Wines in Hawke’s Bay sums things up, commenting, “It was an interesting harvest. The combination of the challenging weather patterns coupled with staffing issues due to Covid posed a tricky season for all involved. Vineyard sites that were well-tended to and ripened at the ideal time to dodge the effects of high rain events will provide some lovely wines of depth and character. However, those that weren’t will certainly see the result of reduced crops due to increased disease pressure. Overall we will generally see more elegant restrained wines than is typical with some treasures in the mix.”
This experience was fairly consistent down the eastern side of the country, with a series of storms sweeping through in February. Mark Thompson, Chief Winemaker of GisVin reported that Gisborne, “had double to triple the rainfall in the months on January, February, and March. Growers that were able to mitigate disease pressure produced some good fruit – standout varieties were chardonnay, early sauvignon blanc and gewurztraminer.”
In the Wairarapa, winemaker Helen Masters of Ata Rangi says, “2022 vintage started off well for the region with calm, warm weather at flowering, setting up a good fruit set. Rain late December was welcomed as it set the vines up nicely for the remaining season… but it was not going to be that easy! Three large rain episodes through February shifted the dynamics. It was a difficult season, with crops reduced due to rain, insect and disease pressure and the ongoing issues with seasonal staff shortages. With all the fruit in and safely tucked away in the winery, I can say that though this vintage challenged and frustrated winemakers, we are excited at how these 2022 wines will reveal themselves.”
In Marlborough, sentiments were a little rosier. Nat Christensen, Chief Winemaker of Yealands Wine Group says, “We had a lot of rain over the winter months which set the vines up to be vigorous and fertile. We had good crops this season, on par with long term averages and in some areas 10% above. There was a bit of disease pressure in the Wairau Valley, which meant some fruit needed to come in before the acidities were in balance, but there was good early flavour development which helped. The Awatere Valley had a great season, good clean fruit and strong classic flavour profiles coming through. We are really happy with what we have got in tank, everything is looking clean and vibrant and there are some real standouts in there.”
Further south, Vic Tutton of The Bone Line in North Canterbury says, “the Canterbury Covid spike coincided perfectly with harvest – so being a very small team we closed the gate and hunkered down. Some parts of the region had late summer disease pressure to manage in the lead up to harvest from dollops of rain and humidity – unusual for us all here – followed by a dry autumn. Overall, it has felt like a classic, pre-climate-change growing season, lacking the extremes, and most producers seem excited with what’s in the winery.”
Further west, Nelson’s weather behaved itself, with Heidi Seifried of Seifried Estate reporting, “Vintage 2022 was pretty kind to us… we had modest crops, and the weather throughout harvest was ideal with a fantastic long settled period of autumn sun. The threat of virus disruption never eventuated for us, so our vineyard and winery teams were able to chip away at harvest without anyone needing to isolate – phew! Flavours are good, acidity is bright and first bottlings not far away!”
It was all smiles in Central Otago as an extended dry run into harvest allowed winemakers to pick at their leisure. Paul Pujol, winemaker and GM of Bendigo’s Prophet’s Rock sums up, “The short answer is that 2022’s been great – a warm, dry, late season with almost summer-like afternoons (still the cold mornings) through until April. It made for a fairly compressed harvest of extremely clean fruit, slightly on the early side of picking dates, but holding pretty good acidity. Challenges were more around labour and pickers for the region, but most people easily got fruit as ripe as they wanted it. In the scheme of harvests, it was one where you got to pick when you wanted not when you had to.”
While the final tonnage is yet to be released, the good news for winemakers and wine drinkers is that yields were back to normal and the industry is breathing a sigh of relief as winery stocks and markets are replenished.

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MOORILLA’S LEGACY HONOURED

production — Fri, 22 Jul 2022 05:28:51 +0000

SIXTY years is not a long time – but in the Tasmanian wine business it is an eternity.
Moorilla marked its 60th anniversary recently with a day of celebration, paying homage to the legacy of founding winemaker Claudio Alcorso.
Moorilla Estate, home to the Museum of Old and New Art (Mona), hosted Sexagesimus, a festival described as “a Dionysian day of wine aplenty, feasting, live music and performance on the Mona lawns.
Latin for 60th, Sexagesimus honours Alcorso, a visionary and pioneer of winemaking in Tasmania.
Guests were invited to bring a picnic rug and feast from Mona’s food offerings – reimagined in celebration of Claudio.
Musicians, including Vince Jones, entertained as patrons sipped their way through speciality wine tastings of Moorilla’s rare back vintages, available for one day only.
Moorilla also marked the occasion by re-releasing a limited-edition vintage riesling: the 50th anniversary Cloth Label, made from grapes hand-picked and stomped by foot at Moorilla’s 50th anniversary celebration.
This limited-edition wine, cellared for 10 years, follows a tradition beginning in 1962 when Alcorso and his family harvested and stomped the first riesling grapes from Moorilla.
Moorilla winemaker Conor van de Reest says: “Moorilla has a long history here in Tasmania as one of the very first modern vineyards.
“Throughout that time, through Claudio Alcorso and David Walsh, it has always had an intrinsic link to community. We’re welcoming the public to celebrate Moorilla’s 60th vintage with a fitting tribute to Claudio’s legacy and the ongoing story of the vineyard he established.”
David Walsh, Moorilla’s owner and Mona’s creator, says: “I was raised just up the road from Moorilla, and as a child I walked past many times, but I did not enter, because I did not feel that such a special place was meant for one such as me.
“Had I entered, I would have encountered one of Claudio’s (and Moorilla’s) earliest vintages, and three houses that he commissioned. Years later, I marvelled at jazz on the lawn, and pinot in the glass.
“I bought Moorilla on a whim, and that whim came to define me. Moorilla became mine, along with its houses, after Claudio had been a sensitive custodian for 47 years.”

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40 YEARS OF HITTING THE SWEET SPOT

production — Sun, 15 May 2022 01:05:44 +0000

DE BORTOLI’S iconic Noble One dessert wine is celebrating 40 years of continued success.
Since its first release in 1982, Noble One has been awarded over 182 trophies and 505 gold medals globally.
It is one of the most awarded wines in history.
Darren de Bortoli created Noble One at the family winery at Bilbul, in the Riverina region of New South Wales in 1982.
Today the “sticky” remains the benchmark of Australian botrytis dessert winemaking.
“It feels like only yesterday that Dad and I were asking the local growers to allow their grapes to go rotten,” Darren recalls.
“They thought we were both mad, yet here we are celebrating 40 years of Noble One and what a journey it has been.
“One of my favourite memories from the early days of Noble One was being awarded the trophy for best sweet wine in the world at the International Wine and Spirit Awards in 1984 by Madame Odette Pol Roger. At the time it was like a dream.”
One fascinating fact about Noble One is that there is no sugar added into the wine, the sweetness is all natural and comes solely from the semillon grapes.
This makes it an ideal wine for pairing with blue cheese and patés, with the salty/savoury characters of the dishes balanced out with the natural sweetness of the wine. Visit www.debortoli.com.au/

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TAHBILK CHANGING OF THE GUARD

production — Sun, 15 May 2022 01:04:04 +0000

ALISTER Purbrick is standing down as head of Tahbilk – Victoria’s oldest family-owned winery.
And Tahbilk has gone outside the wine industry to appoint a replacement.
Tahbilk, established in 1860, has been owned and operated by the Purbrick family since 1925.
Fourth generation Alister Purbrick will retire in June and will be replaced as Chief Executive Officer by Ross Sudano. Sudano is described as having “experience in disrupting existing markets”.
He has worked with familiar brands including Little Creatures Brewing, Anaconda Adventure Stores, BP Australia, Foodland Associated Limited and The Reject Shop.
Alister Purbrick is a well-known figure on the Australian wine landscape, having served on several industry boards and committees over the course of his career. This includes his role as the inaugural chair of Australia’s First Families of Wine, this country’s leading group of multi-generational wine families, established in 2009, and as past president of the Winemakers Federation of Australia (now Australian Grape & Wine Incorporated).
“After 43 years running my family businesses, Tahbilk and the Tahbilk Group, it’s time for me to pass the baton on,” Purbrick said.
“After an exhaustive recruitment process, overseen by a family and independent member panel, we welcome Ross and are certain that his extensive and proven business acumen and leadership skills will build on the successes achieved over 162 years of operation.”
Sudano will be based at Tahbilk’s corporate office in Melbourne with regular time spent overseeing operations based in the Nagambie Lakes region of Victoria.
Tahbilk has over 220 hectares under vine and produces around 120,000 cases of wine each year.

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AFTER ISO BENEFIT FROM A BREW

production — Sun, 15 May 2022 01:01:03 +0000

AFTER being isolated from the rest of the world, Western Australia welcomed its first international and interstate arrivals in March.
Visitors can now check out the new Gage Road Brewing facility in hip and happening Fremantle, the port city just south of Perth.
The new venue opened last month in the historic A Shed building at Fremantle’s Victoria Quay.
Built in 1926, the 100-metre-long dockside cargo shed at the entrance to the harbour has been transformed into a brewery, restaurant, bar, and family-friendly venue – with much of the shed’s heritage still retained throughout.
Located right on the Walyalup Waterfront, the venue also includes a 100-metre strip of alfresco seating overlooking the ocean between Fremantle and Rottnest Island, from which Gage Roads took its name, plus a children’s play area.
Guests can sample the full range of Gage Roads beers on tap, poured direct from 16 different tanks, along with a rotating list of brewery-only exclusive brews.
Executive chef Danny Sanchez is serving up bites and share plates inspired by the sea featuring local produce, as well as wood-fired pizzas.
The brewery is part of Fremantle’s Victoria Quay revitalisation project – which looks to develop the port precinct into a major tourism and recreation space.

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