EXPERTS are predicting that Australians will continue to holiday at home more even though international travel has opened up again. Not to mention the joy of hitting the open road after months of lockdown in Sydney and Melbourne. My first trip out of town was to Yamba, the increasingly popular beach town about 120 kilometres south of Byron Bay.
Many ill-informed writers claim that Yamba has only recently become “the new Byron”. Hardly. There has been a millionaires’ row overlooking the town’s pristine beaches for nearly 20 years and houses routinely sell in excess of $2 million and up to $4.6 million. The sort of cafe culture and food scene that flows from the arrival of more moneyed residents is very much in evidence. While The Pacific Hotel, long Yamba’s most important landmark building, was the subject of a $50 million bidding war between two of Sydney’s major pub and hotel empires, Merivale and the Laundy family, in early 2021.
When the Pacific first opened in 1934, it was hailed as “the most perfectly appointed place of all seaside resorts north of Sydney”. Overlooking Yamba’s Main Beach and NSW’s northernmost ocean pool, the pub houses an homage to the area’s long surfing history. There’s also a bistro and a recent multi-million dollar revamp of the northern wing offers upmarket king and queen suites with balconies and sea views. If you think that’s Chris Hemsworth standing at the bar, it might be. The Thor actor often pops in from his palatial home in Byron Bay.
The latest upscale accommodation to open is The Surf Yamba, a 12-room boutique hotel. The property is owned by David, Andrew and Phillip Mayne, who also operate the Barkley Homestead in the Northern Territory. The Art-Deco-inspired curved building is reminiscent of the cruise ships of the 1930s and the interiors are the work of the Design King Company in Sydney. There’s a roof top terrace, plunge pool and 360-degree views, overseen by general manager Garry Snodgrass who has previously worked at the Six Senses Soneva in the Maldives and luxury resorts in Thailand, Vietnam and Fiji. A sophisticated blend of nostalgia and Hamptons style, The Surf’s decor centres on terrazzo tiles, original artworks, bespoke sofas and Hay Bella coffee tables. A steal at $295 per night.
Yamba has five beaches to choose from – Main, Whiting, Convent, Turner and Pippi – which helps to preserve its quiet vibe. One of the best ports of call for foodies is the Yamba Farmers and Producers Market, held every Wednesday in the car park at Whiting Beach. Over 40 stallholders offer local produce such as Conrad Park grass-fed beef, Ashby artisan sourdough bread, Clarence River milk, Boorabee Dorper lamb and the fantastic, cured meats of The Big Salami. Sushi Wallabi relocated from Byron Bay and you can find sushi master Genki crafting his wares from Woodburn-grown rice and seafood from The Clarence River Fishermen’s Cooperative.
Over 10 years ago, celebrity chef and restaurateur Matt Moran made national headlines when he said that Yamba prawns are known internationally for being the biggest, sweetest and, more importantly, the best. He likened the delicacy to the Sydney rock oyster and declared that if there’s a better prawn anywhere else in the world, he didn’t know about it.
The Yamba Prawn Shack on the marina has been a place of pilgrimage since 2019. Open on weekends only, king and school prawns fresh from the boats are the main attractions alongside Balmain bugs and oysters. Many fans buy a kilo or two of prawns and eat them out of hand on the nearby beach.
It’s hard to argue with the tagline of the Sanctus Brewing Co – crafted in God’s country. Located in Townsend, a 20-minute drive from Yamba, there’s plenty to like in the stylish corrugated iron and brick brewery with soaring ceilings. The company offers small group tours of up to 10, complete with a tasting paddle of its signature brews. Head brewer, Banjo Hillier, has all thirsts covered from Big River XPA through Empty Head Pilsner, Sweet Disposition IPA, Triple B Stout and Valley Pale Ale. The brewery also dishes up superior pub grub from wood-fired pizzas to fish tacos and beer-battered fish and chips.
The trend for gourmet burgers shows no sign of waning and why should it. The standout burger place in town is BRGR Spot. I am a major fan of the Almighty Cheezus – 150g of wagyu beef, streaky bacon, house tomato relish, fried mozzarella sticks and blue cheese mayo. For vegetarians there’s the Greened Out, anchored by a kale patty, avocado, broccoli, charred vegies and sundried tomato aioli. Or pig out on the Shnit Happens – pork schnitzel, bacon Swiss cheese, red cabbage and fennel kraut, currywurst saus and pickles.
Zac Roberts and Gale Bourke ran the popular Leche Cafe for six years and opened the upmarket Karrikin restaurant in late 2018. The chic yet laidback decor is the perfect backdrop for the constantly changing Modern Australian menus using local produce and native ingredients. Only the core ingredient is outlined on the menu listings, so every dish brought to the table is a surprise. Think karaage chicken, mapo tofu ramen and coconut, lychee and melon trifle.
The Sandbar bills itself as a beachside bistro. The main magnet is seafood and the contemporary cuisine showcases a French twist. Oysters dressed in passionfruit and chilli salsa make a palate-popping starter, followed by popular mains such as char-grilled yamba prawns, crispy skin barramundi with French ratatouille and chorizo mayonnaise and grilled tenderloin with Paris mash, red wine jus and pepper sauce. French wines are peppered throughout the wine list from Les Allees du Vignoble Petit Chablis to Chateau Suau organic wine from Bordeaux, backed up by Australian and Kiwi bottlings.
Cocktails are a prime lure at Paradiso, a former shop themed-up like a speakeasy, and so is the modern Asian menu. The wagyu steak with soy mustard dressing and shallots is one of the best beef dishes you will ever eat. Spice lovers can satisfy their cravings with the red crispy duck with hot numbing sauce and a trio of handmade dumplings including lamb and fennel with house dark chilli paste and pork and chilli with szechuan seasoning. Wash it all down with some cool imported Asian beers or minimum intervention red and whites from Sigurd Wines in the Barossa.
On the drive up or down the coast, I often visit Two Tails Wines, only one-hour due south of Yamba at Nana Glen. The award-winning winery has a stunning cellar door and specialises in varietals such as chambourcin, villard blanc and jaquez, fruit wines and chardonnay. Velvets Restaurant is a destination eatery for both its menu and breathtaking setting in the Orara Valley. Book ahead to enjoy grazing plates such as zucchini fritters with smoked scamorza cheese and truffle aioli, confit salmon farinata pancakes and twice-cooked pork belly with compressed apple, saffron aioli and mustard jus.