WINE touring in Europe was on hold for Australians until late last year because of the global pandemic. This Northern Hemisphere summer offers the chance to get back to old haunts or visit iconic wine destinations for the first time. There’re few better options to kickstart an indulgent few days of food and wine appreciation than Reims, the capital of Champagne.
The city at the centre of the world’s most famous bubbles is very walkable, so many choose to take the 45-minute train from Paris rather than book a rental car and limit the amount of glasses they can enjoy as they visit the large and small Champagne houses.
The first place of homage should be the Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Reims. The city was badly damaged during the First and Second World Wars, but this Gothic master-structure largely survived unscathed. UNESCO World Heritage-listed, Reims Cathedral witnessed the coronations of 33 French kings before the revolution. But one of its crowning modern glories are the stunning stained-glass windows designed by Russian-French Expressionist artist, Marc Chagall.
Next door is the Palais du Tau, where the newly anointed monarchs held their slap-up state banquets. It’s now a treasure trove of coronation regalia and tapestries and showcases images of the cathedral’s modern restoration projects.
Even if you are planning a wider tour of the Champagne region, taking in Ay and Epernay, there’s plenty of large and niche houses in Reims to whet your appetite for more. Mumm offers several tours in English, including the Mumm RSRV Club Experience which incorporates the tasting of two top tete de cuvees partnered with French cheeses.
One of my favourite stops is the boutique house of Pol Couronne only a short stroll from the cathedral. One of the main attractions is the chance to sabre a bottle of Champagne for anyone with a mediaeval complex. You can slice the top off a bottle of Champagne brut or a grand cru, depending on your budget. Another highlight is Pol Couronne’s Masterclass tasting.
Lanson is one of only two major houses in Reims to offer an all-encompassing experience from vine to glass, combining cellar and vineyard tours. The top of the line is the Prestige Experience – a two-hour tour of the cellars and walled vineyard and a tasting of Black Label Brut, Green Label Bio, Vintage 2009 and Le Clos 2077 wines.
You can’t miss the chateau-style HQ of Pommery, sitting atop 18 kilometres of underground cellars. The house offers self-guided tours, but smart operators will book the Gastronomic Experience – a three-hour tour culminating in a dinner or lunch served with selected Champagnes. A steal at 125 euros per person.
Taittinger is a top choice for anyone with limited time. The largest family-owned house, the cellars were once used as an underground hospital during World War I and the soldiers’ graffiti has been preserved. My tour tip is the L’Instant Signe, which includes a tasting of Brut Reserve and Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs at the end.
Located in one of the oldest parts of Reims is G.H. Martel where the cellars have been recently renovated. The house offers several reasonably priced tours but the best is the Prestige – a one hour guide tour of the cellars and chalk quarries, topped off with a tasting of three prestige cuvees.
Foodies should square in a visit to the centrally located Halles Boulingrin. Built in the 1920s for an architectural competition, the Art Deco covered market was closed in 1988 after serving the city for 60 years. Re-opened as a farmers’ market in 2012, in addition to the Insta-worthy fresh produce you can enjoy artisan products from the local terroir such as sausages, cheeses and wines.
La Caserne Chanzy opened in late 2019 as the only luxury hotel in the heart of Reims. Located in the city’s former fire station, this swish, contemporary hotel and spa offers in-your-face views of the cathedral from many of the rooms, bar and restaurant. The carpets evoke aerial views of the vines of Champagne, the pendant lights mimic Champagne bottles and the green and beige colour scheme reflects the region to emphasise a sense of place.
The Champagne Bar in the lobby offers 280 bottlings from the biggest to the smallest houses. The restaurant is named after Reims’ original fire truck – La Grande Georgette. The smart industrial-style decor with its cathedral views is one of the best places to enjoy a reasonably priced three-course lunch for only 34 euros per person.
If you need a break from drinking Champagne, head for Le Cul Sec. This atmospheric bar does offer bubbles, but you can also order wines from Bordeaux, Alsace and Languedoc. If a hangover threatens to spoil your morning, go to Holy Shot in the rue de Talleyrand. Ask for a noisette, the French equivalent of macchiato, or a flat white if you don’t feel that bad.
Racine, a minimalist fine dining restaurant that seats less than 20 patrons, boasts two Michelin stars. Chef Kazuyuki Tanaka is Japanese, so there’s plenty of Asian touches peppering the predominantly French menu. Three menus degustation are on offer and the ultimate experience is the 10-course option. Dishes are simply yet exquisitely plated from wagyu beef with morels to langoustines with caviar.
The other Michelin-starred restaurant not to be missed is Le Foch. Chef Jacky Louaze was named a “Great of Tomorrow” by Gault & Millau and achieved his first Michelin star in 2003. Providores are named on the menu when their produce is included in a dish. Consider: monkfish, herb broth, barigoule artichoke and olive tomato ravioli or roast squab, blueberries, hot foie gras and salsify.
Seafood lovers should make a beeline for Le Bocal, located next to the main fish market. It’s also very intimate, catering to only 14 diners. Opened in 2008, the eatery has its own Champagne menu. But the emphasis is very much on the freshest of oysters, crab and prawns served with a wide array of sauces and side dishes.
Billing itself as a marriage of old and new, L’Ambic is very popular with locals as a true restaurant of the terroir. The most atmospheric spot to dine is the cellar which is an authentic Champagne cave. Tuck into old favourites from filet d’agneau en croute d’herbes through supreme of guineafowl and blanquette de veau a l’ancienne. My go-to is the choucroute de la mer douce et cremeuse au Champagne – an unctuous blend of cabbage and seafood spiked with the fizz of Champagne.